Showing posts with label Customer Questions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Customer Questions. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Types of Water Heaters


Water Heating


Next to heating or cooling, water heating is typically the largest energy user in the home. As homes have become more and more energy efficient during the past 20 years, the fraction of energy used for water heating has steadily increased. This article takes a look at the high-efficiency water heaters available and how you can reduce water heating costs with your present water heater.

TYPES OF WATER HEATERS
Storage water heaters are by far the most common type of water heater in the U.S. today. Ranging in size from 20 to 80 gallons (or larger) and fueled by electricity, natural gas, propane, or oil, storage water heaters heat water in an insulated tank. When you turn on the hot water tap, hot water is pulled out of the top of the water heater and cold water flows into the bottom (through a "dip tube" from the top) to replace it. Because heat is lost through the flue and the walls of the storage tank (this is called standby heat loss), energy is consumed even when no hot water is being used. New energy-efficient storage water heaters contain higher levels of insulation around the tank and one-way valves where pipes connect to the tank, substantially reducing standby heat loss.



Demand (or instantaneous) “Tankless” water heaters eliminate the storage tank by heating water directly when there is a call for hot water. These units are growing in popularity in the U.S. The energy consumption of these units is generally lower since standby losses from the storage tank are eliminated. Demand water heaters with enough capacity to meet household needs are gas- or propane-fired. They have three significant drawbacks for some applications: Large simultaneous uses (two showers and the clothes washer, for example) may challenge their capacity, particularly in winter, when the inlet water is coldest. They will not turn on unless the hot water flow is ½ - 3/4 gallon/minutes. Retrofit installation can be very expensive. Finally, because the efficiency tests were not developed with these designs being considered, it is not known if the "EF" accurately estimates energy consumption.


Heat pump water heaters are more efficient than electric resistance models because the electricity is used for moving heat from one place to another rather than for generating the heat directly. The heat source is the outside air or air in the basement where the unit is located. Refrigerant fluid and compressors are used to transfer heat into an insulated storage tank. Heat pump water heaters are available with built-in water tanks called integral units, or as add-ons to existing hot water tanks. A heat pump water heater uses one-third to one-half as much electricity as a conventional electric resistance water heater. In warm climates they may do even better, but there are few sources for these products.

Indirect water heaters use the home’s boiler or furnace as the heat source. In boiler systems, hot water from the boiler is circulated through a heat exchanger in a separate insulated tank. In the less common furnace-based systems, water in a heat exchanger coil circulates through the furnace to be heated, then through the water storage tank. Since hot water is stored in an insulated storage tank, the boiler or furnace does not have to turn on and off as frequently, improving its fuel economy. Indirect water heaters, when used in combination with new, high-efficiency boilers or furnaces, are usually the least expensive way to provide hot water. These systems can be purchased in an integrated form, incorporating the boiler or furnace and water heater with controls, or as separate components. Gas, oil, and propane-fired systems are available.

Solar water heaters use energy from the sun to heat water. Solar water heaters are designed to serve as preheaters for conventional storage or demand water heaters. While the initial cost of a solar water heater is high, it can save a lot of money over the long term. Solar water heaters are much less common than they were during the 1970s and early 1980s when they were supported by tax credits, but the units available today tend to be considerably less expensive and more reliable. At today’s prices, solar water heaters compete very well with electric and propane water heaters on a life-cycle cost basis, though they are still usually more expensive than natural gas.

Thursday, May 10, 2012

How To Heat and Cool Your Home Efficiently

How to Heat & Cool Your Home Efficiently

As much as half of the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling. So making smart decisions about your home's heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have a big effect on your utility bills — and your comfort. Take these steps to increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling system.

Change your air filter regularly

Check your filter every month, especially during heavy use months (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty after a month, change it. At a minimum, change the filter every 3 months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy. A clean filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system — leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.

Tune up your HVAC equipment yearly

Just as a tune-up for your car can improve your gas mileage, a yearly tune-up of your heating and cooling system can improve efficiency and comfort.

Install a programmable thermostat

A programmable thermostat is ideal for people who are away from home during set periods of time throughout the week. Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat can save you about $180 every year in energy costs.

Seal your heating and cooling ducts

Ducts that move air to-and-from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner, or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20 percent — and sometimes much more.

Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the attic, crawlspace, unheated basement, or garage. Use duct sealant (mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap them in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold in the winter. Next, look to seal any other ducts that you can access in the heated or cooled part of the house.

Alot of work? No, just contact Joe Mumford Plumbing for professional assistance.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Real Answers: Finding a Decent Plumber

Question:
No baloney, please. Just tell me where I can find a decent plumber who doesn't charge an arm and a leg.

Reply:
The same place you find the goose that lays golden eggs - in a fairy tale.

Some household repairs - fixing a leak under your sink, clearing a clogged drain, etc., are simple enough that many home owners choose to save money by doing it themselves. This is always an option.

However, when you call a professional plumber for a simple household repair, he does not charge on the basis of how complicated the job might be, but based on his time and overhead expenses. So there is a certain minimum he must charge on every call, no matter how simple the job might be.

This usually amounts to somewhere between $50-100. People tend to get upset paying $50 or more for a job that may take merely 10 - 15 minutes to complete. What they fail to factor is what it costs the company to bring a plumber to your door. They must pay for the dispatcher, truck, fuel, tools, insurance coverage, office equipment, etc.

How do you define a "decent" plumber? The least most people would expect is that he'd be able to identify and fix the problem and guarantee it for at least a year - or return at no extra charge if it breaks down before that. The work should abide by safety standards and codes. It's also reasonable to expect the firm to be licensed, insured and not on the public prosecutor's most wanted list. This inevitably means adding that "arm and leg" in overhead costs.

So much for simple repairs. The true skill of a mechanic, just as with a doctor, has less to do with turning a wrench than diagnosing a problem. If you have no hot water, or no heat from your boiler, or foul gunk flows from a faucet, it's no time to look for someone who works cheap. Imagine asking: "How can I find a decent brain surgeon who doesn't charge an arm and a leg...a decent defense lawyer...a decent airplane pilot..."

Oh, but how could anyone compare one of those skilled professionals to a lowly plumber! The fact of the matter is that plumbers also deal in life and death matters. The fuel lines and flues to your heating equipment carry the potential for death and destruction. And how would you like someone to cross-connect a waste line with your potable water supply? A well-trained plumber has been through a four or five year apprenticeship that is every bit as challenging as a college education. Their work is priced accordingly.

Some plumbing companies have taken to charging a flat rate for certain types of repairs, whether it takes one, two or more hours to do the job. People who don't like surprises may find this more appealing than paying by the hour.

If you do find a very cheap plumber, beware. As with everything else, you get what you pay for. That's no baloney.